OLD SAN JUAN. Casablanca, Paris and Provence via Puerto Rico. Such is the experience upon entering the heavy wooden doors that conceal this former cinema warehouse from the bustle of SoFo. Limoges china and crystal hold the chef's creations which are steeped in fine French tradition with touches of the island. You'll find escargot and sole meuniere in addition to spicy sausage and salmon carpaccio with citrus.

CONDADO. Local and traditional, this is Puerto Rican cuisine at its homestyle best. An undisputed must-try are the mofongos (green plantains stuffed with meat), as well as the accessible old standards like arroz con pollo. Pork dishes are spiced, stewed and delectably tender, and a cold glass of a local brew is the perfect pairing for any of the saucy, starchy dishes.

OLD SAN JUAN. Fine Italian food, an extensive wine list, and an elegantly casual atmosphere make Al Dente a great dining choice in Old San Juan. The dining room has high ceilings dotted with slowly rotating fans, arches, and colorful walls filled with the paintings of co-owner Margie Amenta. Her husband, Chef Giancarlo Amenta, sees to it that his à la carte menu features pasta and fish dishes consisting of the freshest ingredients, for instance, spinach sauteed with sea scallops and topped with a velvety cream sauce. Staples of Sicilian cuisine (such as rice balls) pepper the menu. Sample a variety of dishes at the luncheon buffet, or come for supper and a show on Thursday night with live jazz performances.

HATO REY. With tented tables, draped fabrics, and dancers swaying and tinkling ankle bells, it may be difficult to focus on the food, but the traditional Arabic fare shines as brightly as the gold coins at the belly dancer's waist. Try the savory lamb and thick, garlicky hummus; top it off with a delicate dessert of lady fingers as you lounge like a shiek at your table.

OLD SAN JUAN. Some say that chic and stylish Amadeus Café is where you'll find the best Puerto Rican fare in the city, all presented with an Old City air. The crowd tends to be upwardly mobile trend setters. The front dining room is complete with dark wood tables dressed with white table cloths. The back room offers a more romantic setting with exposed brick and flickering candles; al fresco is also available with outdoor garden and fountains. Start with the smoked caviar pizza or the plantain mousse with shrimp. For your main course you might want to sample the chicken breast stuffed with sun-dried tomatoes or the Cajun grilled mahi-mahi.